How to Take Care of Your Septic Tank System

The Septic Tank System like any machine that requires proper use and maintenance. This article provides information on the proper care and use of your septic Tank and Drainfield “Septic System”. At the very least, the Septic Tank needs to be pumped out every three to five years. If you decide to not maintain your Septic Tank System the following is what you can look forward to:

1. A falling Septic System can be a threat to your families health and the environment, especially your well for your drinking water supply or nearby recreational lake waters.

2.Reduced Property Value and has a negative experience with your neighbors.

3. A Septic System is expensive to repair and may require constant pumping of the septic tank, possible installation of a holding tank, or possibly you could have to MOVE OUT of Your HOUSE until the costly repairs are complete.

4. Messy back-ups of sewage into the house (ruining your hardwood or carpet) or sewage gases smells in your home.

The warning signs that you may have a problem with your Septic Systems Drainfield:

* Sewage water surfacing over the drainfield, sand filter or mound.

* Slow drainage of bathtubs, sinks and toilets, frequent back-ups, and water over the Septic Tank Lid.

* Lush green grass and wet to saturated soil over drainfield. Sewage smell and gas odors.

DO NOT DO THESE THINGS

* Add excessive amounts of caustic chemicals to the system. Normal household cleaners in moderate amounts won’t damage your Septic System, but concentrated or toxic chemicals may kill the good bacteria in the Septic System.

*Do not drive cars or machinery, park cars or machinery over top of the Septic Tank or Drainfield area.

* Do not put cooking oils, lard, fats or greases into the sink drain. Separate this fats and greases into a can or container and throw it away in the garbage as part of your household trash.

* Do not secondary bathrooms such as shop or garage bathrooms, motor homes or your gutter downspouts into the Septic Tank System.

* Do not Put baby diapers or WIPES,feminine products, or other materials containing non-biodegradable substances into the Septic Tank. (even if the baby wipes say flushable!! This is for homes on SEWER only)!

* Do not waste water by leaving the shower running for long periods time while waiting for it to warm up.

* Do not use high volumes of water on the same day. Spread out high volume water usage, use throughout the week. In other words DO NOT do all your laundry on Saturday and it is better to run the dishwashers and washing machine on separate day’s.

* Do not plant trees over or near the Septic Tank or the Drainfield, Mound System or Sandfilter box. Roots can intrude into the Septic Tank and baffles and clog or damage the Distribution Box and the the drainfield pipes.

* Most of the time, Septic Tank additives are not needed for residential Septic Tank Systems and these products should never replace the routine maintenance septic tank pumping schedule. Most of the time, these so called cleaners will cause the sludge and scum layer to be broken down into fine enough particles that they will be pushed out into the drainfield, which causes the drainfield lines to become clogged.

* Do not turn off the ATU (Aerobic Treatment Unit) Tank, even if you are going away on a vacation.

**Caution** Do not believe these sales people for the Septic Tank Cleaning enzymes! They will tell you that if you use their product, you will never have to pump your Septic Tank again…. The truth is that these products will break down the solids in the tank and they then are sent out to the drainfield. You might not have to pump your Septic Tank as often, but you will have to replace the drainfield instead! This is not a good trade off. Pumping your septic Tank every 3 years at approximately $400.00 or have your Septic System replaced for $10K ? Be responsible and pump the Septic Tank every 3 years!

DO THESE THINGS!

* Have a maintenance plan in place with your Septic Tank Pumping Professional ( www.LillySeptic.com) - If you have a screened outlet baffle, schedule your septic System Maintenance professional from Lilly’s to clean the screen on a yearly basis. This will prevent blocked screens causing a messy backup into the house.

* Properly use and maintain the system, which includes pumping the Septic Tank, inspecting the Septic system, bottle brushing the laterals (when recommended by your Septic Tank Pumping crew (www.LillySeptic.com), and other maintenance items recommended by your Septic System Service Technician.

* Divert surface water and roof runoff away from the septic tank and drainfield area.

* Install low flow toilets and laundry washing machines and other water conservation devices.

* Run the dishwashers and washing machine with full loads only and spread out the laundry throughout the week. It is best to run the Dishes and Laundry many times during the week rather than do all of the laundry on saturday. NO MORE WASH Day !

* Maintain records of your Septic Tank Pumping, Septic Tank lid and drainfiled location, (AS-Built Drawing) Septic System Inspections, maintenance, and any repairs done to the system.

* avoid construction of sheds or parking area’s in the drainfield area. Avoid having livestock in the area of the Septic Tank or drainfield as they can damage the lines.

* Make sure that the alarm is functioning properly for the pump and/or Sandfilter for pressure distribution systems with an audible and visual alarm to alert you to problems.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service - Lisa McCullough http://www.LillySeptic.com Serving King County Homeowners since 1990. Septic Tank Pumping, Installation & Repairs for homeowners in King County including Maple Valley, Hobart, Issaquah, Sammamish, Enumclaw, Auburn, Covington, Kent, Black Diamond, Renton, Federal Way and all of King county.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service

King County Septic System and Drainfield Experts

Keeping Your Septic Tank System Healthy

Guidelines for a Healthy Septic Tank and Drainfield

By following a few simple rules, you won’t have to think about your system on a day-to-day basis.

Indeed, with proper use, conventional onsite Septic Tank systems can operate between Tank Pumping without much management.

Septic System Maintenance begins with sound water use and waste disposal habits. Since your family will determine which materials enter the system, we encourage you to set rules and stick to them,  Here is a partial list of the items to keep OUT of your Septic Tank. Do not introduce any of the following:

• Grease or cooking oils
• Disposable diapers
• BABY WIPES
• Feminine hygiene products
• Any latex products
• Paper towels
• Plastics
• Cat litter
• Latex paint, pesticides, or any hazardous chemicals

Many homes have garbage disposals to help manage vegetable and other food waste. Excessive use of your garbage disposal may introduce a high level of unwanted solids into your system. Use disposals moderately and consider composting as an option to handle vegetable waste.  If you use a garbage disposal the septic Tank will need to be pumped every 3 years to ensure that solids to not reach the baffle level and potentially damage the drainfield.

Do not put too much water into the septic tank system. Excess water puts too much strain on the decomposition process and can cause problems. Do not do all loads of laundry in one day, try to stager laundry over the week.  Maximum water use should be about 50 gallons per day for each person in the family. Estimate by using the following numbers per person so you can keep track:

• Shower: 2.5 gallons per minute - 10 minute shower = 25 gallons
• Toilet: 2 gallons per flush (for toilets bought in the last 20 years)
• Washing machine: 40 gallons per load
• Dishwasher cycle: 10 gallons

With large families, keeping track of water use can be hard. But laying down guidelines can help everyone do their part. Also consider getting energy and water-wise appliances when you need to replace your current models. Visit www.energystar.gov/ for suggestions.

Be aware that your system is sized to handle the number of people anticipated to be using it when it is installed. If that number increases, you may need a larger system.

Do not use harsh drain openers for a clogged drain. The best alternative to conventional, caustic drain openers is to use boiling water or a drain snake to clear clogs. Though this approach may be a little messier, the chemicals in drain cleaners can cause havoc with your septic system.

Use mild or natural cleaners for your bathroom and kitchen. They should either be okay ed for use in septic systems or marked biodegradable, Although you cannot trust these detergents that are labeled “Septic Safe”.  We find that when some particular brands of Laundry detergent labeled “Septic Safe” are innocently used, the Septic Tank looks like there was paint poured into it as well as a thick layer of gray clay like material build up in the bottom of the Tank.  This thick clay like matter is then pushed out to the drainfield clogging up the Drainfield lines!

Be aware that bleaches and antibacterial soaps can inhibit the enzymatic action necessary to help bacteria break down the solids in the tank.

Again, harsh chemicals can cause expensive and unpleasant problems in your system.

If you use or intend to use a water softener in the home, let your installer or maintenance contractor know. Under certain soil conditions, the salt recharge solution must be handled carefully and the size of your absorption field may need to be increased.

Have the solids pumped out of the septic tank on a regular basis. Your Septic Tank Pumping contractor or your local health department can give you guidelines.  Lilly’s Septic Tank Service recommends Cleaning and Pumping the Septic Tank every 3 to 5 years.  If your septic tank is 500 to 900 gallon single compartment, the tank should be pumped every 3 years to protect your drainfield.  A 900 to 1500 gallon Septic Tank should be pumped every 3 to 5 years depending on family size and various factors of individual usage of the system.  Lilly’s Septic Tank Services Expert Technician can recommend the proper pumping frequency for your system by the amount of material accumulated in the Septic Tank since the last pumping.  If you use a garbage disposal seriously consider pumping your Septic Tank every 3 years!

Remember, more sophisticated systems may require additional maintenance. So always ask your installer for details on the recommended Pumping frequency for your Septic System.  As Certified Master Installers for all King County Septic Tank Systems Lilly’s MI (Master Installer) can recommend pumping frequency for your specific Septic Tank system.

For additional maintence information, visit Lilly’s Septic Service main website at www.Lillyseptic.com or give us a call…..

Maple Valley Septic Tank Systems and Drainfield Experts

www.LillySeptic.com

Does your Septic Tank need Cleaning…?

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Inspecting your Septic Tank

The Stick Test

Septic tanks are mainly settling chambers. They allow time for solids and scum to separate out from wastewater, so clear liquid can safely go to the drainfield. Over time, the scum and sludge layers get thicker, leaving less space and time for the wastewater to settle before passing to the drainfield.

For every gallon entering the tank, one gallon is pushed out into the drainfield. So it is important to keep the level of scum and sludge from building up and nearing the inlet or outlet baffles, where the scum or sludge could plug them up or be carried out to the drainfield.

Septic tanks should be checked for buildup every 1 to 3 years until you can get on a predictable pumping schedule. Most septic tanks need pumping every 3 to 5 years. How often depends on the size of the tank, the number of people in the household, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank.

You can hire a professional or inspect your septic tank yourself. The “stick test” procedure will guide you through the steps of measuring the amount of scum and sludge in the tank, discovering the working capacity of the tank, and determining whether the tank needs pumping. A more complete inspection includes inspecting the condition of the baffles and the pipe seals into and out of the tank.

What You Need to Do the Stick Test

• two 10-foot PVC pipes*
• four end caps*
• one 90° elbow*
• PVC cement (blue cement used in rain and wet)
• two adapters, SxMPT, threaded*
• one coupler, threaded*
• two feet of white rag or old towel or old gym sock
• string or duct tape
• pencil or waterproof marker
• rubber gloves
• disinfecting solution made of 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water in a bucket
• plastic bag for disposal of towel, rag/sock, gloves
  
  *all PVC materials are 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC plastic

The scum stick at right is 6 feet long with a 6-inch leg. The sludge stick is two 5-foot sections screwed together. (NOTE: Scum and sludge sticks can be any length up to 10 feet.)

Step 1 — Uncover the Tank

First uncover and remove the first manhole cover. Some systems have “risers” that make this job easier by bringing the tank lids up to the ground surface. (We encourage you to have risers installed so you won’t need to dig down each time you inspect.)

The diagram at left shows the top of the two most common septic tank configurations. The upper figure is found on newer tanks and the bottom one is usually found on older septic tanks. In most cases, the hole to the left is the first compartment, the hole to the right is the second compartment, and the rectangular cover is to the crossover baffle. (Some tanks, 25 years or older, may have only one compartment that is round, oval, or square.)

Step 2 — Measure the Scum Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the scum level (SC).

1. To make the scum stick — Cut one of the 10-foot PVC pipes to 6 feet. Glue a 90° elbow to one end. Cut a 6-inch piece of PVC pipe and glue to elbow. Place end caps on open ends.
2. Lay a board or stick across the top of the hole, manhole, or riser.
3. Place the scum stick down the manhole of the first compartment of the tank until it rests on top of the scum layer  and mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
4. Work the stick through the scum layer, leading with the elbow end. Push straight through the scum layer, turn the stick 90°, pull up on the stick until you feel the bottom of the scum layer.
5. Mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
6. Remove the scum stick and measure the distance between the two marks. This is the thickness of the scum layer (SC).

Step 3 — Measure the Sludge Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the sludge level (SL).

1. To make the sludge stick — cut the other 10-foot PVC pipe into two 5-foot sections. Glue an adapter to each stick. Screw the coupler into one of the adapters. Connect the two sections to make a 10-foot stick.
2. Tightly wrap two feet of a white rag or old towel around the bottom of the stick. Fasten it with tape or string.
3. Make hole in scum — do not stain the sludge stick with scum.
4. Carefully lower stick through the hole in scum in first compartment until it rests on top of the liquid layer. Mark the stick where it crosses the opening of the manhole or riser
5. Lower the stick to the bottom of the tank. Hold the stick in the tank for at least five minutes to allow sludge particles to adhere to the towel.
6. Mark the sludge stick where it crosses the board .  The distance between the two marks  is the working depth of the tank (WD).
7. Carefully remove the stick. There should be a distinct dark stain on the rag. Measure the height of the stain. This is the depth of the sludge layer (SL).

WHEN TO PUMP Pump the tank when the sludge depth, plus the scum depth, is greater than one-third of the working depth of the tank: (a) SC _____ inches + SL _____ inches = _____ (b) WD _____ divided by 3 = _____ If (a) is greater than (b), the tank needs pumping. For example, if SC = 10, SL = 8, and WD is 48″: 10 + 8 = 18 inches and 48/3 = 16 inches… 18 is greater than 16, so the tank needs pumping.

Step 4 — Inspecting the Baffles

Remove the covers over the inlet, outlet, and crossover baffles. Inspect the baffles to ensure they are present and not severely corroded. If the baffles are concrete and molded into the rest of the tank, venting holes should be present and unobstructed.

• The inlet baffle should be unobstructed and the pipe sealed to the tank.
• The outlet baffle should be unobstructed and the liquid level should be at the bottom of the pipe, not below the pipe or above the bottom of the pipe. The pipe must be well sealed to the tank.

Cleanup and Disinfection

• Wear rubber gloves.
• Discard soiled gloves and sludge toweling in a plastic bag.
• Rinse sticks with bleach water to disinfect before storing

Home Owners Guide to How Septic Systems work

Households that are not served by public sewers usually depend on septic systems to treat and dispose of wastewater.  Septic Systems represent a significant financial investment. If cared for properly, a well designed, installed, and maintained system will provide years of reliable, low-cost service.

A failing system can become a source of pollution and public health concern, causing property damage, ground and surface water pollution (such as well water—both yours and your neighbors), and disease outbreaks. Once your septic system fails to operate effectively, you may need to replace it, costing you thousands of dollars. Plus, if you sell your home, your septic system must be in good working order. Therefore, it makes good sense to understand and care for your septic system.

There are many different types of septic systems that fit a wide range of soil and site conditions. The following will help you understand the main components of a standard (gravity fed) septic system and how to keep it operating safely at the lowest possible cost.

A standard septic tank system has three main parts:

• The Septic Tank — A septic tank’s purpose is to separate solids from the wastewater, store and partially decompose as much solid material as possible, while allowing the liquid (or effluent) to go to the drainfield. …
• The Drainfield — After solids settle in the septic tank, the liquid wastewater (or effluent) is discharged to the drainfield, also known as an absorption or leach field. …
• The Soil — The soil below the drainfield provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the wastewater has passed into the soil, organisms in the soil treat the effluent before it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering ground or surface water. The type of soil also impacts the effectiveness of the drainfield; for instance, clay soils may be too tight to allow much wastewater to pass through and gravelly soil may be too coarse to provide much treatment.

For Septic System question and Service call Lilly’s Septic Service at 425-432-3084  253-639-3606  360-825-4809