How to Take Care of Your Septic Tank System

The Septic Tank System like any machine that requires proper use and maintenance. This article provides information on the proper care and use of your septic Tank and Drainfield “Septic System”. At the very least, the Septic Tank needs to be pumped out every three to five years. If you decide to not maintain your Septic Tank System the following is what you can look forward to:

1. A falling Septic System can be a threat to your families health and the environment, especially your well for your drinking water supply or nearby recreational lake waters.

2.Reduced Property Value and has a negative experience with your neighbors.

3. A Septic System is expensive to repair and may require constant pumping of the septic tank, possible installation of a holding tank, or possibly you could have to MOVE OUT of Your HOUSE until the costly repairs are complete.

4. Messy back-ups of sewage into the house (ruining your hardwood or carpet) or sewage gases smells in your home.

The warning signs that you may have a problem with your Septic Systems Drainfield:

* Sewage water surfacing over the drainfield, sand filter or mound.

* Slow drainage of bathtubs, sinks and toilets, frequent back-ups, and water over the Septic Tank Lid.

* Lush green grass and wet to saturated soil over drainfield. Sewage smell and gas odors.

DO NOT DO THESE THINGS

* Add excessive amounts of caustic chemicals to the system. Normal household cleaners in moderate amounts won’t damage your Septic System, but concentrated or toxic chemicals may kill the good bacteria in the Septic System.

*Do not drive cars or machinery, park cars or machinery over top of the Septic Tank or Drainfield area.

* Do not put cooking oils, lard, fats or greases into the sink drain. Separate this fats and greases into a can or container and throw it away in the garbage as part of your household trash.

* Do not secondary bathrooms such as shop or garage bathrooms, motor homes or your gutter downspouts into the Septic Tank System.

* Do not Put baby diapers or WIPES,feminine products, or other materials containing non-biodegradable substances into the Septic Tank. (even if the baby wipes say flushable!! This is for homes on SEWER only)!

* Do not waste water by leaving the shower running for long periods time while waiting for it to warm up.

* Do not use high volumes of water on the same day. Spread out high volume water usage, use throughout the week. In other words DO NOT do all your laundry on Saturday and it is better to run the dishwashers and washing machine on separate day’s.

* Do not plant trees over or near the Septic Tank or the Drainfield, Mound System or Sandfilter box. Roots can intrude into the Septic Tank and baffles and clog or damage the Distribution Box and the the drainfield pipes.

* Most of the time, Septic Tank additives are not needed for residential Septic Tank Systems and these products should never replace the routine maintenance septic tank pumping schedule. Most of the time, these so called cleaners will cause the sludge and scum layer to be broken down into fine enough particles that they will be pushed out into the drainfield, which causes the drainfield lines to become clogged.

* Do not turn off the ATU (Aerobic Treatment Unit) Tank, even if you are going away on a vacation.

**Caution** Do not believe these sales people for the Septic Tank Cleaning enzymes! They will tell you that if you use their product, you will never have to pump your Septic Tank again…. The truth is that these products will break down the solids in the tank and they then are sent out to the drainfield. You might not have to pump your Septic Tank as often, but you will have to replace the drainfield instead! This is not a good trade off. Pumping your septic Tank every 3 years at approximately $400.00 or have your Septic System replaced for $10K ? Be responsible and pump the Septic Tank every 3 years!

DO THESE THINGS!

* Have a maintenance plan in place with your Septic Tank Pumping Professional ( www.LillySeptic.com) - If you have a screened outlet baffle, schedule your septic System Maintenance professional from Lilly’s to clean the screen on a yearly basis. This will prevent blocked screens causing a messy backup into the house.

* Properly use and maintain the system, which includes pumping the Septic Tank, inspecting the Septic system, bottle brushing the laterals (when recommended by your Septic Tank Pumping crew (www.LillySeptic.com), and other maintenance items recommended by your Septic System Service Technician.

* Divert surface water and roof runoff away from the septic tank and drainfield area.

* Install low flow toilets and laundry washing machines and other water conservation devices.

* Run the dishwashers and washing machine with full loads only and spread out the laundry throughout the week. It is best to run the Dishes and Laundry many times during the week rather than do all of the laundry on saturday. NO MORE WASH Day !

* Maintain records of your Septic Tank Pumping, Septic Tank lid and drainfiled location, (AS-Built Drawing) Septic System Inspections, maintenance, and any repairs done to the system.

* avoid construction of sheds or parking area’s in the drainfield area. Avoid having livestock in the area of the Septic Tank or drainfield as they can damage the lines.

* Make sure that the alarm is functioning properly for the pump and/or Sandfilter for pressure distribution systems with an audible and visual alarm to alert you to problems.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service - Lisa McCullough http://www.LillySeptic.com Serving King County Homeowners since 1990. Septic Tank Pumping, Installation & Repairs for homeowners in King County including Maple Valley, Hobart, Issaquah, Sammamish, Enumclaw, Auburn, Covington, Kent, Black Diamond, Renton, Federal Way and all of King county.

 

Inspecting your Septic Tank

The Stick Test

Septic tanks are mainly settling chambers. They allow time for solids and scum to separate out from wastewater, so clear liquid can safely go to the drainfield. Over time, the scum and sludge layers get thicker, leaving less space and time for the wastewater to settle before passing to the drainfield.

For every gallon entering the tank, one gallon is pushed out into the drainfield. So it is important to keep the level of scum and sludge from building up and nearing the inlet or outlet baffles, where the scum or sludge could plug them up or be carried out to the drainfield.

Septic tanks should be checked for buildup every 1 to 3 years until you can get on a predictable pumping schedule. Most septic tanks need pumping every 3 to 5 years. How often depends on the size of the tank, the number of people in the household, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank.

You can hire a professional or inspect your septic tank yourself. The “stick test” procedure will guide you through the steps of measuring the amount of scum and sludge in the tank, discovering the working capacity of the tank, and determining whether the tank needs pumping. A more complete inspection includes inspecting the condition of the baffles and the pipe seals into and out of the tank.

What You Need to Do the Stick Test

• two 10-foot PVC pipes*
• four end caps*
• one 90° elbow*
• PVC cement (blue cement used in rain and wet)
• two adapters, SxMPT, threaded*
• one coupler, threaded*
• two feet of white rag or old towel or old gym sock
• string or duct tape
• pencil or waterproof marker
• rubber gloves
• disinfecting solution made of 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water in a bucket
• plastic bag for disposal of towel, rag/sock, gloves
  
  *all PVC materials are 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC plastic

The scum stick at right is 6 feet long with a 6-inch leg. The sludge stick is two 5-foot sections screwed together. (NOTE: Scum and sludge sticks can be any length up to 10 feet.)

 

Step 1 — Uncover the Tank

First uncover and remove the first manhole cover. Some systems have “risers” that make this job easier by bringing the tank lids up to the ground surface. (We encourage you to have risers installed so you won’t need to dig down each time you inspect.)

The diagram at left shows the top of the two most common septic tank configurations. The upper figure is found on newer tanks and the bottom one is usually found on older septic tanks. In most cases, the hole to the left is the first compartment, the hole to the right is the second compartment, and the rectangular cover is to the crossover baffle. (Some tanks, 25 years or older, may have only one compartment that is round, oval, or square.)

Step 2 — Measure the Scum Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the scum level (SC).

1. To make the scum stick — Cut one of the 10-foot PVC pipes to 6 feet. Glue a 90° elbow to one end. Cut a 6-inch piece of PVC pipe and glue to elbow. Place end caps on open ends.
2. Lay a board or stick across the top of the hole, manhole, or riser.
3. Place the scum stick down the manhole of the first compartment of the tank until it rests on top of the scum layer  and mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
4. Work the stick through the scum layer, leading with the elbow end. Push straight through the scum layer, turn the stick 90°, pull up on the stick until you feel the bottom of the scum layer.
5. Mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
6. Remove the scum stick and measure the distance between the two marks. This is the thickness of the scum layer (SC).

Step 3 — Measure the Sludge Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the sludge level (SL).

1. To make the sludge stick — cut the other 10-foot PVC pipe into two 5-foot sections. Glue an adapter to each stick. Screw the coupler into one of the adapters. Connect the two sections to make a 10-foot stick.
2. Tightly wrap two feet of a white rag or old towel around the bottom of the stick. Fasten it with tape or string.
3. Make hole in scum — do not stain the sludge stick with scum.
4. Carefully lower stick through the hole in scum in first compartment until it rests on top of the liquid layer. Mark the stick where it crosses the opening of the manhole or riser
5. Lower the stick to the bottom of the tank. Hold the stick in the tank for at least five minutes to allow sludge particles to adhere to the towel.
6. Mark the sludge stick where it crosses the board .  The distance between the two marks  is the working depth of the tank (WD).
7. Carefully remove the stick. There should be a distinct dark stain on the rag. Measure the height of the stain. This is the depth of the sludge layer (SL).

WHEN TO PUMP Pump the tank when the sludge depth, plus the scum depth, is greater than one-third of the working depth of the tank: (a) SC _____ inches + SL _____ inches = _____ (b) WD _____ divided by 3 = _____ If (a) is greater than (b), the tank needs pumping. For example, if SC = 10, SL = 8, and WD is 48″: 10 + 8 = 18 inches and 48/3 = 16 inches… 18 is greater than 16, so the tank needs pumping.

Step 4 — Inspecting the Baffles

Remove the covers over the inlet, outlet, and crossover baffles. Inspect the baffles to ensure they are present and not severely corroded. If the baffles are concrete and molded into the rest of the tank, venting holes should be present and unobstructed.

• The inlet baffle should be unobstructed and the pipe sealed to the tank.
• The outlet baffle should be unobstructed and the liquid level should be at the bottom of the pipe, not below the pipe or above the bottom of the pipe. The pipe must be well sealed to the tank.

Cleanup and Disinfection

• Wear rubber gloves.
• Discard soiled gloves and sludge toweling in a plastic bag.
• Rinse sticks with bleach water to disinfect before storing