Archive for the ‘Drainfield Information’ Category

Septic Tank System Upgrades, Installations and Repairs Thursday, November 12th, 2009



Septic Tank System Repairs and Upgrades

You can rely on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service whenever you need a septic system repair or upgrade. We repair septic systems, upgrade and maintain all Septic Tank Systems, Install Septic Tank Systems.  If you are adding on to your home, most likely the Septic Tank System will need to be updated to current code.  You can count on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service to propose an upgrade and install the most economical system to comply with King County Code.  You can count on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service if you need to have your Septic Tanks moved or the drainfield replaced with a new system when you are doing a remodel.

Owner, Darren McCullough takes pride in finding the most economical solution for the homeowner as possible when it comes to replacing or repairing a septic system.  See the Septic System Installation page at our main website for more information on our Septic System Installation Services.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping is your local experts in King County for Septic System upgrades, System remodels, Drainfield Replacements and new Septic Tank Installations.

Find out how to prevent Septic System & Drainfield Failure at the main Website www.LillySeptic.com

If you are experiencing problems with your drainfield - Give us a call, we are here to help and will do our best to get you back in the flow as soon as possible in the most easy and painless way possible.


Give us a call today!

425-432-3084   *  360-825-4809   *  253-639-3606

Lilly’s Septic Tank Systems - Upgrades, Repairs and Installs Septic Tank Systems in King County Washington including the following cities of King County, Enumclaw, Ravensdale, Maple Valley, Black Diamond, Hobart, Covington, Kent, Auburn, Renton, Federal Way, Sea Tac, Tukwilla, Seattle, Mercer Island, Kirkland, Bellevue, New Castle,Woodinville, Duvall, Carnation, Fall City, Preston, Snoqualmie, North bend, Sammamish, Issaquah.

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Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service - Septic Tank Systems & Drainfield Experts Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

Maple Valley Septic Tank Systems and Drainfield Experts

www.LillySeptic.com


Does your Septic Tank need Cleaning…?

Providing Septic Tank Pumping, Septic Repairs, Septic Installation, Septic Inspections and Septic Monitoring and Maintenance for all of King County including Maple Valley, Hobart, Issaquah, Black Diamond, Enumclaw, Covington, Kent, Auburn, Federal Way, Burien, Tukwilla and more

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Landscaping over your Drainfield Wednesday, June 17th, 2009
Landscaping over Your Drainfield  
 
   
     
  Is your septic system drainfield an eyesore? Are you unsure how to care for it?Your drainfield represents a substantial investment. Treating it right, and protecting it from damage, can save considerable time, work, and money. 

Planting Tips

Planting your drainfield may be different than other experiences you have had landscaping.

  • It is unwise to work the soil, which means no rototilling. Parts of the system may be only six inches under the surface. Adding two to three inches of topsoil to the drainfield should be fine, but more could be a problem (too much can prohibit the exchange of air and water).
  • Any plants should be relatively low in maintenance and water needs. Select plants that once established will not require routine watering.

Acceptable Plants for Some Drainfields

The following shallow-rooted plants can be grown on standard drainfields or mounds. Broken down by the amount of sunlight needed, they include groundcovers, ferns, ornamental grasses, and wildflowers.

Deep Shade (receives no direct sun)

  • Carpet Bugle (Ajuga reptans): an aggressive groundcover with blue flowers in the spring
  • Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis): an aggressive evergreen groundcover; once established, it forms a thick cover, minimizing weeds
  • Periwinkle (Vinca minor): an evergreen groundcover with periwinkle blue flowers in the spring. Moderately drought tolerant in shady areas
  • Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum): a native evergreen fern that in a shady location is very tolerant of our dry summer months — easy to grow
  • Irish Moss (Sagina): not a true moss, but a good look-alike and much easier to grow — does best when mixed with ferns and other plants

Partial Shade (receives about 4 hours of sun)

  • Blue Star Creeper: an attractive, fast-growing groundcover with tiny blue flowers
  • Carpet Bugle and Sword Fern (see above): also suitable, but the fern will not be as drought tolerant as in the shade
  • Creeping Rubus (Rubus pentalobus): species of ornamental bramble, but its leaves and small flowers are much more decorative than its thorny cousins — the rooting carpet of stems can easily grow four feet a year
  • Vaccinium “Well’s Delight” (Vaccinium crassifolium): shiny, dark evergreen leaves with dainty pinkish flowers — a good, three-inch-tall groundcover for partial sun

Full Sun (receives sun all day or about 8 hours)

  • Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): a native evergreen groundcover known for its drought tolerance once established. Requires a well-drained soil; not tolerant of wet areas.
  • Blue-Silver Fescue (Festuca cinema): an ornamental grass with blue-silver blades. A short, clumping grass requiring a well-drained soil, not drought tolerant.
  • Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens): an ornamental grass with stiff evergreen blue blades. Requires well-drained soil.
  • Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopercuroides): an attractive fountain grass with arching stems bearing soft, bottlebrush clusters of fuzzy flowers. Grows to about 1 1/2 to 2 feet and is tolerant of moist soils, unlike some other ornamental grasses.
  • Vaccinium “Well’s Delight” and Creeping Rubus, noted above, are also suitable.

Wildflowers

A meadow with a mix of native grasses and shallow-rooting flowers can be very attractive, and good for wildlife, too. The use of wildflowers with bulbs is an easy way to landscape the drainfield and have two to three seasons of color. Daffodil and crocus bulbs are easy to naturalize and both are reasonably drought tolerant and will return year after year. When selecting wildflower seed, there are several important considerations:

  • Be sure the seed is viable and not left over from the previous year. Many mixes currently available may not be well suited for our Northwest climate.
  • As with the Acceptable Plants above, seed selection must be based on the amount of sun. There are a variety of native seed mixes for all types of sun-shade situations.
  • The seed mix needs to be a blend of annual and perennial seeds. Avoid wildflower seeds that contain knapweed, hawkweed, or other noxious weeds. Packets of wildflowers from out of state may contain weeds considered a nuisance here in Washington. Look for Washington state labeled packages that say “no noxious weeds” or “no detectable weeds.”
  • If your drainfield currently has grass, you cannot just spread the seed over the grass and expect it to grow. Remove the grass in small areas, six inches or so in diameter, and sow the seed in those areas. The grass needs to be kept out of the area until the seed has germinated and is large enough to compete with the grass.
  • May is generally the best month to sow wildflower seeds, when we still get enough rain to keep the seeds moist during germination. If we have a dry month, sprinkle the seeds with water twice a week.

Contact Lilly’s Septic for more answers to your questions at 425.432.3084  253.639.3606  360.825.4809

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The Drainfield Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

The Drainfield

How It Works

The drainfield is a network of perforated pipes (or “laterals”) laid in gravel-filled trenches or beds. After solids settle in the septic tank, the liquid wastewater (or effluent) is discharged, either by gravity or pressure, to an absorption field, also known as a drainfield or leachfield. NOTE: In most gravity systems the wastewater first flows into a distribution box (d-box) or tee, which then disburses the effluent equally among the trenches in the drainfield, which is where the final treatment takes place.

Effluent trickles out of the pipes, through the gravel layer, and into the soil where further treatment occurs. The soil filters the wastewater as it passes (or “percolates) through the pore spaces and the soil microbes treat it before it eventually enters the groundwater. These processes work best where the soil is somewhat dry, permeable, and contains plenty of oxygen for several feet below the drainfield.

The drainfield is generally located in a stretch of lawn in the back or side yard of a property. The size and type of drainfield depends on the estimated daily wastewater flow and local soil conditions.

The Soil

The soil below the drainfield provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the wastewater has passed into the soil, organisms in the soil treat the effluent before it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering ground or surface water. The type of soil also impacts the effectiveness of the drainfield; for instance, clay soils may be too tight to allow much wastewater to pass through and gravelly soil may be too coarse to provide much treatment.

Replacement (Reserve) Area

Every new home or building served by a septic system is required to have a designated replacement or reserve area. This is a designated area suitable for a new drainfield and must be treated in the same manner as your existing drainfield. (A reserve area should have been designated as part of the permit process for any sewage system installed since 1980.)

Once a septic system has failed, it is too late to solve the problem by pumping your tank. A new drainfield will have to be installed at a different location. This is why it is important to know where the replacement area is located and how to protect it (see “Drainfield Do’s and Don’ts” for replacement area care).

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Is your Septic System Failing? What are the Warning Signs Monday, June 15th, 2009

Is Your Septic System Failing? … What are the Warning Signs

If you notice any of the following signs of a potential failure or if you suspect your septic system may be having problems, contact  for further diagnostics. Should your Septic fail contact Lilly’s Septic Service at 253-639-3606  425-432-3084  360-825-4809

Odors, surfacing sewage, or wet spots in the drainfield area.

  • Plumbing or septic tank backups (often a black liquid with a disagreeable odor).
  • Slow draining fixtures.
  • Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system.
  • If you have a well and tests show the presence of coliform (bacteria) or nitrates, your drainfield may be failing.
  • Standing liquid over the drainfield, even during dry weather. This may indicate an excessive amount of effluent is moving up through the soil, instead of downward.
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What Can Go Wrong with a Septic Tank and Drainfield? Saturday, June 13th, 2009

What Can Go Wrong with a Septic Tank and Drainfield?

Like an automobile, septic systems are designed to provide long-term, effective treatment of household waste when operated and maintained properly. However, most systems that fail prematurely are due to improper maintenance.

If you notice any of the following signs or if you suspect your septic system may be having problems, contact a qualified septic professional. Should your septic system fail, contact Lilly’s Septic Service at 425-432-3084 - 360-825-4809 - 253-639-3606.

  • Odors, surfacing sewage, wet spots, or lush vegetation growth in the drainfield area
  • Plumbing or septic tank backups (often a black liquid with a disagreeable odor)
  • Slow draining fixtures
  • Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system
  • If you have a well and tests show the presence of coliform (bacteria) or nitrates, your drainfield may be failing
  • Lush green grass over the drainfield, even during dry weather
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