How to take care of your Septic Tank System in King County

January 19th, 2010

How to Take Care of Your Septic Tank System


Homeowners in King County  including Maple Valley, Hobart, Issaquah, Sammamish, Enumclaw, Auburn, Covington, Kent, Black Diamond, Renton, Federal Way

The Septic Tank System like any machine that requires proper use and maintenance. This article provides information on the proper care and use of your septic Tank and Drainfield “Septic System”. At the very least, the Septic Tank needs to be pumped out every three to five years. If you decide to not maintain your Septic Tank System the following is what you can look forward to:

1. A falling Septic System can be a threat to your families health and the environment, especially your well for your drinking water supply or nearby recreational lake waters.

2.Reduced Property Value and has a negative experience with your neighbors.

3. A Septic System is expensive to repair and may require constant pumping of the septic tank, possible installation of a holding tank, or possibly you could have to MOVE OUT of Your HOUSE until the costly repairs are complete.

4. Messy back-ups of sewage into the house (ruining your hardwood or carpet) or sewage gases smells in your home.

The warning signs that you may have a problem with your Septic Systems Drainfield:

* Sewage water surfacing over the drainfield, sand filter or mound.

* Slow drainage of bathtubs, sinks and toilets, frequent back-ups, and water over the Septic Tank Lid.

* Lush green grass and wet to saturated soil over drainfield. Sewage smell and gas odors.

DO NOT DO THESE THINGS

* Add excessive amounts of caustic chemicals to the system. Normal household cleaners in moderate amounts won’t damage your Septic System, but concentrated or toxic chemicals may kill the good bacteria in the Septic System.

*Do not drive cars or machinery, park cars or machinery over top of the Septic Tank or Drainfield area.

* Do not put cooking oils, lard, fats or greases into the sink drain. Separate this fats and greases into a can or container and throw it away in the garbage as part of your household trash.

* Do not secondary bathrooms such as shop or garage bathrooms, motor homes or your gutter downspouts into the Septic Tank System.

* Do not Put baby diapers or WIPES,feminine products, or other materials containing non-biodegradable substances into the Septic Tank. (even if the baby wipes say flushable!! This is for homes on SEWER only)!

* Do not waste water by leaving the shower running for long periods time while waiting for it to warm up.

* Do not use high volumes of water on the same day. Spread out high volume water usage, use throughout the week. In other words DO NOT do all your laundry on Saturday and it is better to run the dishwashers and washing machine on separate day’s.

* Do not plant trees over or near the Septic Tank or the Drainfield, Mound System or Sandfilter box. Roots can intrude into the Septic Tank and baffles and clog or damage the Distribution Box and the the drainfield pipes.

* Most of the time, Septic Tank additives are not needed for residential Septic Tank Systems and these products should never replace the routine maintenance septic tank pumping schedule. Most of the time, these so called cleaners will cause the sludge and scum layer to be broken down into fine enough particles that they will be pushed out into the drainfield, which causes the drainfield lines to become clogged.

* Do not turn off the ATU (Aerobic Treatment Unit) Tank, even if you are going away on a vacation.

**Caution** Do not believe these sales people for the Septic Tank Cleaning enzymes! They will tell you that if you use their product, you will never have to pump your Septic Tank again…. The truth is that these products will break down the solids in the tank and they then are sent out to the drainfield. You might not have to pump your Septic Tank as often, but you will have to replace the drainfield instead! This is not a good trade off. Pumping your septic Tank every 3 years at approximately $400.00 or have your Septic System replaced for $10K ? Be responsible and pump the Septic Tank every 3 years!

DO THESE THINGS!


* Have a maintenance plan in place with your Septic Tank Pumping Professional ( www.LillySeptic.com) - If you have a screened outlet baffle, schedule your septic System Maintenance professional from Lilly’s to clean the screen on a yearly basis. This will prevent blocked screens causing a messy backup into the house.

* Properly use and maintain the system, which includes pumping the Septic Tank, inspecting the Septic system, bottle brushing the laterals (when recommended by your Septic Tank Pumping crew (www.LillySeptic.com), and other maintenance items recommended by your Septic System Service Technician.

* Divert surface water and roof runoff away from the septic tank and drainfield area.

* Install low flow toilets and laundry washing machines and other water conservation devices.

* Run the dishwashers and washing machine with full loads only and spread out the laundry throughout the week. It is best to run the Dishes and Laundry many times during the week rather than do all of the laundry on saturday. NO MORE WASH Day !

* Maintain records of your Septic Tank Pumping, Septic Tank lid and drainfiled location, (AS-Built Drawing) Septic System Inspections, maintenance, and any repairs done to the system.

* avoid construction of sheds or parking area’s in the drainfield area. Avoid having livestock in the area of the Septic Tank or drainfield as they can damage the lines.

* Make sure that the alarm is functioning properly for the pump and/or Sandfilter for pressure distribution systems with an audible and visual alarm to alert you to problems.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service - Lisa McCullough http://www.LillySeptic.com Serving King County Homeowners since 1990. Septic Tank Pumping, Installation & Repairs for homeowners in King County including Maple Valley, Hobart, Issaquah, Sammamish, Enumclaw, Auburn, Covington, Kent, Black Diamond, Renton, Federal Way and all of King county.

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Posted in Drainfield Do's & Don'ts, Drainfield Information, Failure Warning Signs, Septic System Basics, Septic System Do's and Don'ts, Septic System Home Owners, Septic System Inspection, Septic System Maintenance, Septic Tank Pumpimg, Uncategorized, When to Pump a Septic Tank | No Comments »

King County Homeowners Guide to How Septic Systems Work

November 27th, 2009

King County Homeowners guide to How Septic Systems Work by Lillys Septic Tank Pumping, Installation & Repair Service

The Septic Tank, Pump Tank and The Drainfield are what make up the Typical single family Septic System. Your Septic System will include the septic and pump tank (if a pressure system) that are concrete or fiberglass rectangles or cylindrical. The Tanks are buried and sit approximately one to two feet below the surface unless risers are installed that bring the lids to the surface for easy maintenance and pumping access. All of the drainswithin the home lead to the septic tank, so every drop of water that is used in the house goes into the septic tank.

When the wastewater enters the the tank it then separated into three parts, the scum layer which consists of fats, oils and greases.

The sludge layer that consists of the heavier solids that sink to the bottom and then the natural bacteria action produces digested sludge and dangerous gases. The mid water layer is simply suspended solid particles and wastewater.

Homes built up until about 1975 usually have single compartment 750 gallon Tanks and those built after 1975 typically will have a two compartment 900 to 1000 gallon tank. Homes built after 1990 will most likely be a pressure distribution system and will also have a 1000 gallon pump tank with a effluent pump to pressure the wastewater to the drainfield.

The Single Compartment Septic Tank:

There are some old wives tales or beliefs that “if a Septic Tank is working properly, you never have to pump it). This is absolutely false and negligent and will cost you thousands of dollars if you do not pump the septic tank regularly. Pumping should be performed every 3 years for a single compartment Tank and 3 to 5 for a 2 compartment Tank, depending on usage and habits.

If the Septic Tank is not pumped regularly the solids will accumulate until eventually they are pushed out the outlet pipe and into the drainfield. Because there is no wall for further treatment and separation, single compartment Tanks are at higher risk of this situation than a 2 compartment Tank. When Solids are pushed into the drainfield the soil and drain lines will become clogged and will not allow the water to dissipate into the soil, sending it to the surface or back into the house. This is when you will have raw sewage backed up into the bathtub or shower and the toilet, causing a health risk for your family. When the sewage water surfaces in the yard you are not only putting your family at risk, but you are risking your pets and neighbors as well. If the scum level reaches 24 inches you are risking the drainfield damage, that is why it is so important to inspect the Septic System yearly and pump a Single compartment Septic Tank every 3 years.

~Following is a cross section of the single compartment Septic Tank~

Typical single compartment Septic Tank

Typical single compartment Septic Tank

Double compartment septic tank anatomy:

All Septic Tanks need to be pumped every 3-5 years, depending on the tank size, the amount of solids entering the tank and the habits of the users. The only sure way to know is to have the Septic Tank inspected annually. By measuring the sludge and scum layer thickness it can be determined when the Septic Tank needs to be umped.

The Septic Tank should be pumped whenever the bottom of the scum layer is 12 inches thick. The scum layer can move to the second compartment through crossover baffle. The 2 compartment Tank has a wall in the center of the tank separating it into 2 compartments. The 1st compartment holds the 3 layers and the 2nd compartment should only be wastewater, although it often has scum and sludge as well at the end of the pumping schedule.

~The diagram below is a cross section of a 2 compartment Septic Tank~

Typical 2 compartment Septic Tank

Typical 2 compartment Septic Tank

Wastewater leaving the septic tank is a liquid called effluent. While it has received some treatment in the tank, it is still unpleasant smelling and contains disease organisms, organic wastes and other pollutants. This effluent requires proper treatment and disposal otherwise there can be significant environmental and public health problems. Discharging effluent onto the ground or into surface and ground water is against Washington State Law and King County Board of Health Codes.

There are many different pretreatment units that are installed today to further treat the effluent prior to hitting round water. Lillys Septic System Service has diagrams and information on these pre treatment units at the website listed at the end of this article.

~ Following are some pictures of some plugged drainlines and surfacing sewage ~

This is what happens when you don't pump the Septic Tank every 3 to 5 years

This is what happens when you don't pump the Septic Tank every 3 to 5 years

When you have surfacing sewage, it is time to have the drainfield replaced!

When you have surfacing sewage, it is time to have the drainfield replaced!

Pump Tanks:

Most systems installed in King County since 2000 include a pump tank. The pump tank contains a submersible sewage pump, high water alarm float and on & off floats. If the system is hooked up to a timer the pump will be activated at specific times for a specific amount of time to pump the effluent out to the drainfield. If the system is on demand, whenever the water level rises and reaches the “on” float level the pump will be activated to pump the effluent to the drainfield, once the water level reaches the “off” float level the pump will turn off until the water rises again to the “on” float level. If you have a pump failure or plugged drainfield and the water cannot leave the Pump Tank a high water level alarm float is installed, if the water level rises to the alarm float an alarm will sound. Your alarm is located on the pump control panel on the side of the house near the septic tanks, under the kitchen sink or in the garage. The location of the alarm device should be known by the homeowner (see your as-built for information for details). Once this alarm is activated there is some emergency storage space before the wastewater over flows out the top of the lids or backs up into the house.  The alarm can be deactivated but will not solve the problem. You should immediately begin emergency water conservation measures and call a Lilly’s Septic Tank Service at 425-432-3084 to send a technician out to troubleshoot the situation.

~Following is a typical Pump Tank ~

typical pump tank

typical pump tank

The Drainfield:

The drainfield is generally located in a stretch of lawn in the back or side yard of a property. The size and type of drainfield depends on the estimated daily wastewater use of the house hold, the more bedrooms a home has them larger the drainfield will need to be. The drainfield is mad up of gravel lined trenches with either corrugated pipes or pvc pipes with holes drilled for the water to disburse through. The water flows from the septic tank to a D-Box and is then directed evenly to each line in the field. the water flows out of the holes in the lines and into the gravel underneath, where it filters through to the soil where further treatment happens naturally prior to the water entering the ground water.

Your Septic System is your Largest underground investment.

Your septic System should be treated as though your home depends on it, It Does! The Septic Tanks and drainfield area should be protected from Cars being parked on it, any type of structure such as carports, decks sport courts or sheds. You will not want to put down any type of landscape plastic or allow farm animals to graze in the area as they can compact the soil creating possible drainfield failure or broken lines. The best solution over your septic system is simply lawn, roots from shrubs and trees can also be detrimental to the drainfield area as the roots can intrude into the lines or the septic tank and cause blockages. Your property will also require a “Reserve area” in case your Septic System fails and a new drainfield must be installed.

~Following is a diagram of a typical septic system~

house-and-tank1

typical septic system in king county

typical septic system in king county

Lilly’s Septic Tank Service has been providing Expert Septic System Service to King county Homeowners since 1990 including - Maple Valley, Enumclaw, Black Diamond, Ravensdale, Covington, Kent, Auburn, Renton, Issaquah, Renton.

Learn more about your Septic Tank System at the Septic System and Drainfield Experts main website at:  www.LillySeptic.com

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Keeping your Septic Tank System Healthy

November 14th, 2009

Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service


King County Septic System and Drainfield Experts

(425) 432-3084  *  (253) 639-3606  *  (360) 825-4809

Keeping Your Septic Tank System Healthy

Guidelines for a Healthy Septic Tank and Drainfield

By following a few simple rules, you won’t have to think about your system on a day-to-day basis.

Indeed, with proper use, conventional onsite Septic Tank systems can operate between Tank Pumping without much management.

Septic System Maintenance begins with sound water use and waste disposal habits. Since your family will determine which materials enter the system, we encourage you to set rules and stick to them,  Here is a partial list of the items to keep OUT of your Septic Tank. Do not introduce any of the following:

  • Grease or cooking oils
  • Disposable diapers
  • BABY WIPES
  • Feminine hygiene products
  • Any latex products
  • Paper towels
  • Plastics
  • Cat litter
  • Latex paint, pesticides, or any hazardous chemicals

Many homes have garbage disposals to help manage vegetable and other food waste. Excessive use of your garbage disposal may introduce a high level of unwanted solids into your system. Use disposals moderately and consider composting as an option to handle vegetable waste.  If you use a garbage disposal the septic Tank will need to be pumped every 3 years to ensure that solids to not reach the baffle level and potentially damage the drainfield.

Do not put too much water into the septic tank system. Excess water puts too much strain on the decomposition process and can cause problems. Do not do all loads of laundry in one day, try to stager laundry over the week.  Maximum water use should be about 50 gallons per day for each person in the family. Estimate by using the following numbers per person so you can keep track:

  • Shower: 2.5 gallons per minute - 10 minute shower = 25 gallons
  • Toilet: 2 gallons per flush (for toilets bought in the last 20 years)
  • Washing machine: 40 gallons per load
  • Dishwasher cycle: 10 gallons

With large families, keeping track of water use can be hard. But laying down guidelines can help everyone do their part. Also consider getting energy and water-wise appliances when you need to replace your current models. Visit www.energystar.gov/ for suggestions.

Be aware that your system is sized to handle the number of people anticipated to be using it when it is installed. If that number increases, you may need a larger system.

Do not use harsh drain openers for a clogged drain. The best alternative to conventional, caustic drain openers is to use boiling water or a drain snake to clear clogs. Though this approach may be a little messier, the chemicals in drain cleaners can cause havoc with your septic system.

Use mild or natural cleaners for your bathroom and kitchen. They should either be okay ed for use in septic systems or marked biodegradable, Although you cannot trust these detergents that are labeled “Septic Safe”.  We find that when some particular brands of Laundry detergent labeled “Septic Safe” are innocently used, the Septic Tank looks like there was paint poured into it as well as a thick layer of gray clay like material build up in the bottom of the Tank.  This thick clay like matter is then pushed out to the drainfield clogging up the Drainfield lines!

Be aware that bleaches and antibacterial soaps can inhibit the enzymatic action necessary to help bacteria break down the solids in the tank.

Again, harsh chemicals can cause expensive and unpleasant problems in your system.

If you use or intend to use a water softener in the home, let your installer or maintenance contractor know. Under certain soil conditions, the salt recharge solution must be handled carefully and the size of your absorption field may need to be increased.

Have the solids pumped out of the septic tank on a regular basis. Your Septic Tank Pumping contractor or your local health department can give you guidelines.  Lilly’s Septic Tank Service recommends Cleaning and Pumping the Septic Tank every 3 to 5 years.  If your septic tank is 500 to 900 gallon single compartment, the tank should be pumped every 3 years to protect your drainfield.  A 900 to 1500 gallon Septic Tank should be pumped every 3 to 5 years depending on family size and various factors of individual usage of the system.  Lilly’s Septic Tank Services Expert Technician can recommend the proper pumping frequency for your system by the amount of material accumulated in the Septic Tank since the last pumping.  If you use a garbage disposal seriously consider pumping your Septic Tank every 3 years!

Remember, more sophisticated systems may require additional maintenance. So always ask your installer for details on the recommended Pumping frequency for your Septic System.  As Certified Master Installers for all King County Septic Tank Systems Lilly’s MI (Master Installer) can recommend pumping frequency for your specific Septic Tank system.

For additional maintence information, visit Lilly’s Septic Service main website at www.Lillyseptic.com or give us a call…..

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Septic Tank System Upgrades, Installations and Repairs

November 12th, 2009



Septic Tank System Repairs and Upgrades

You can rely on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service whenever you need a septic system repair or upgrade. We repair septic systems, upgrade and maintain all Septic Tank Systems, Install Septic Tank Systems.  If you are adding on to your home, most likely the Septic Tank System will need to be updated to current code.  You can count on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service to propose an upgrade and install the most economical system to comply with King County Code.  You can count on Lilly’s Septic Tank Service if you need to have your Septic Tanks moved or the drainfield replaced with a new system when you are doing a remodel.

Owner, Darren McCullough takes pride in finding the most economical solution for the homeowner as possible when it comes to replacing or repairing a septic system.  See the Septic System Installation page at our main website for more information on our Septic System Installation Services.

Lilly’s Septic System Service is your local experts in King County for Septic System upgrades, Remodels, Replacements and new Septic Tank Installations.

Find out how to prevent Septic System & Drainfield Failure at our main Website www.LillySeptic.com

If you are experiencing problems with your drainfield - Give us a call, we are here to help and will do our best to get you back in the flow as soon as possible in the most easy and painless way possible.

Lilly’s Septic Tank Systems - Upgrades, Repairs and Installs Septic Tank Systems in King County Washington including the following cities… Unincorporated King County, Enumclaw, Ravensdale, Maple Valley, Black Diamond, Hobart, Covington, Kent, Auburn, Renton, Federal Way, Sea Tac, Tukwilla, Seattle, Mercer Island, Kirkland, Bellevue, New Castle,Woodinville, Duvall, Carnation, Fall City, Preston, Snoqualmie, North bend, Sammamish, Issaquah.

Give us a call today!

425-432-3084   *  360-825-4809   *  253-639-3606

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Lilly’s Septic Tank Pumping Service - Maple Valley Septic Tank Systems & Drainfield Experts

July 21st, 2009

Maple Valley Septic Tank Systems and Drainfield Experts

www.LillySeptic.com


Does your Septic Tank need Cleaning…?

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Posted in Drainfield Do's & Don'ts, Drainfield Information, Failure Warning Signs, Septic System Basics, Septic System Do's and Don'ts, Septic System Home Owners, Septic System Maintenance, Septic Tank Pumpimg, Uncategorized, When to Pump a Septic Tank | No Comments »

Drainfield Do’s and Don’ts

June 18th, 2009

Drainfield Do’s and Don’ts

Do These Things

  • Know where your drainfield and replacement area are located. When you know where it is located, it is easier to protect. For more information call Lilly’s Septic at 425-432-3084   253-639-3606   360-825-4809.
  • Keep heavy equipment off your drainfield. Cars and heavy equipment should not park or drive over the drainfield; doing so can crack pipes. Create a barrier if accessible to cars, livestock, or heavy equipment.
  • Keep water usage to a minimum. Drainfields do not have an unlimited capacity. When there is more water than it can absorb, the system is unable to drain and filter effluent before it reaches groundwater.
  • Divert water away from the drainfield. Water runoff from roofs and drainage ditches can saturate the soil. Drainfields are most efficient when the soil beneath the drainfield is not saturated.
  • Keep trees and shrubs at least 30 feet away from the drainfield. (NOTE: Some soil conditions may require that plantings be kept an even greater distance from the drainfield.) Trees and shrubs generally have extensive root systems that seek out and grow into wet areas, such as drainfields. This can lead to clogged and damaged drain lines. For more information, see Landscape Your Drainfield.
  • Plant only grass or shallow-rooted plants over the drainfield. This will prevent soil erosion.
  • Protect your replacement area. It may be the only area with acceptable soil conditions in case you need to replace, repair, or add on to the drainfield. All of the above suggestions apply to the replacement area as well.

Don’t Do These Things

  • Don’t build over your drainfield. This includes patios, carports, and other structures. You may damage the drainfield.
  • Don’t pave over the drainfield. Drainfields need air to function properly. Oxygen is needed by bacteria to break down and treat sewage.
  • Don’t dig in your drainfield. Damage to the pipes can occur.
  • Keep large animals and livestock off the drainfield. Soil compaction prevents oxygen from getting into the soil and prevents water from flowing away from the drainfield.
  • Don’t use landscaping plastic over the drainfield. Air is necessary for the drainfield to function efficiently.
  • Don’t plant a vegetable garden over a drainfield. You risk the possibility of food contamination.
  • Don’t install an irrigation system in the drainfield. Neither should the irrigation system drain toward the drainfield.
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Landscaping over your Drainfield

June 17th, 2009
Landscaping over Your Drainfield  
 
   
     
  Is your septic system drainfield an eyesore? Are you unsure how to care for it?Your drainfield represents a substantial investment. Treating it right, and protecting it from damage, can save considerable time, work, and money. 

Planting Tips

Planting your drainfield may be different than other experiences you have had landscaping.

  • It is unwise to work the soil, which means no rototilling. Parts of the system may be only six inches under the surface. Adding two to three inches of topsoil to the drainfield should be fine, but more could be a problem (too much can prohibit the exchange of air and water).
  • Any plants should be relatively low in maintenance and water needs. Select plants that once established will not require routine watering.

Acceptable Plants for Some Drainfields

The following shallow-rooted plants can be grown on standard drainfields or mounds. Broken down by the amount of sunlight needed, they include groundcovers, ferns, ornamental grasses, and wildflowers.

Deep Shade (receives no direct sun)

  • Carpet Bugle (Ajuga reptans): an aggressive groundcover with blue flowers in the spring
  • Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis): an aggressive evergreen groundcover; once established, it forms a thick cover, minimizing weeds
  • Periwinkle (Vinca minor): an evergreen groundcover with periwinkle blue flowers in the spring. Moderately drought tolerant in shady areas
  • Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum): a native evergreen fern that in a shady location is very tolerant of our dry summer months — easy to grow
  • Irish Moss (Sagina): not a true moss, but a good look-alike and much easier to grow — does best when mixed with ferns and other plants

Partial Shade (receives about 4 hours of sun)

  • Blue Star Creeper: an attractive, fast-growing groundcover with tiny blue flowers
  • Carpet Bugle and Sword Fern (see above): also suitable, but the fern will not be as drought tolerant as in the shade
  • Creeping Rubus (Rubus pentalobus): species of ornamental bramble, but its leaves and small flowers are much more decorative than its thorny cousins — the rooting carpet of stems can easily grow four feet a year
  • Vaccinium “Well’s Delight” (Vaccinium crassifolium): shiny, dark evergreen leaves with dainty pinkish flowers — a good, three-inch-tall groundcover for partial sun

Full Sun (receives sun all day or about 8 hours)

  • Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): a native evergreen groundcover known for its drought tolerance once established. Requires a well-drained soil; not tolerant of wet areas.
  • Blue-Silver Fescue (Festuca cinema): an ornamental grass with blue-silver blades. A short, clumping grass requiring a well-drained soil, not drought tolerant.
  • Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens): an ornamental grass with stiff evergreen blue blades. Requires well-drained soil.
  • Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopercuroides): an attractive fountain grass with arching stems bearing soft, bottlebrush clusters of fuzzy flowers. Grows to about 1 1/2 to 2 feet and is tolerant of moist soils, unlike some other ornamental grasses.
  • Vaccinium “Well’s Delight” and Creeping Rubus, noted above, are also suitable.

Wildflowers

A meadow with a mix of native grasses and shallow-rooting flowers can be very attractive, and good for wildlife, too. The use of wildflowers with bulbs is an easy way to landscape the drainfield and have two to three seasons of color. Daffodil and crocus bulbs are easy to naturalize and both are reasonably drought tolerant and will return year after year. When selecting wildflower seed, there are several important considerations:

  • Be sure the seed is viable and not left over from the previous year. Many mixes currently available may not be well suited for our Northwest climate.
  • As with the Acceptable Plants above, seed selection must be based on the amount of sun. There are a variety of native seed mixes for all types of sun-shade situations.
  • The seed mix needs to be a blend of annual and perennial seeds. Avoid wildflower seeds that contain knapweed, hawkweed, or other noxious weeds. Packets of wildflowers from out of state may contain weeds considered a nuisance here in Washington. Look for Washington state labeled packages that say “no noxious weeds” or “no detectable weeds.”
  • If your drainfield currently has grass, you cannot just spread the seed over the grass and expect it to grow. Remove the grass in small areas, six inches or so in diameter, and sow the seed in those areas. The grass needs to be kept out of the area until the seed has germinated and is large enough to compete with the grass.
  • May is generally the best month to sow wildflower seeds, when we still get enough rain to keep the seeds moist during germination. If we have a dry month, sprinkle the seeds with water twice a week.

Contact Lilly’s Septic for more answers to your questions at 425.432.3084  253.639.3606  360.825.4809
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Posted in Landscaping over your Drainfield | No Comments »

The Drainfield

June 16th, 2009

The Drainfield

How It Works

The drainfield is a network of perforated pipes (or “laterals”) laid in gravel-filled trenches or beds. After solids settle in the septic tank, the liquid wastewater (or effluent) is discharged, either by gravity or pressure, to an absorption field, also known as a drainfield or leachfield. NOTE: In most gravity systems the wastewater first flows into a distribution box (d-box) or tee, which then disburses the effluent equally among the trenches in the drainfield, which is where the final treatment takes place.

Effluent trickles out of the pipes, through the gravel layer, and into the soil where further treatment occurs. The soil filters the wastewater as it passes (or “percolates) through the pore spaces and the soil microbes treat it before it eventually enters the groundwater. These processes work best where the soil is somewhat dry, permeable, and contains plenty of oxygen for several feet below the drainfield.

The drainfield is generally located in a stretch of lawn in the back or side yard of a property. The size and type of drainfield depends on the estimated daily wastewater flow and local soil conditions.

The Soil

The soil below the drainfield provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the wastewater has passed into the soil, organisms in the soil treat the effluent before it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering ground or surface water. The type of soil also impacts the effectiveness of the drainfield; for instance, clay soils may be too tight to allow much wastewater to pass through and gravelly soil may be too coarse to provide much treatment.

Replacement (Reserve) Area

Every new home or building served by a septic system is required to have a designated replacement or reserve area. This is a designated area suitable for a new drainfield and must be treated in the same manner as your existing drainfield. (A reserve area should have been designated as part of the permit process for any sewage system installed since 1980.)

Once a septic system has failed, it is too late to solve the problem by pumping your tank. A new drainfield will have to be installed at a different location. This is why it is important to know where the replacement area is located and how to protect it (see “Drainfield Do’s and Don’ts” for replacement area care).

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Is your Septic System Failing? What are the Warning Signs

June 15th, 2009

Is Your Septic System Failing? … What are the Warning Signs

If you notice any of the following signs of a potential failure or if you suspect your septic system may be having problems, contact  for further diagnostics. Should your Septic fail contact Lilly’s Septic Service at 253-639-3606  425-432-3084  360-825-4809

Odors, surfacing sewage, or wet spots in the drainfield area.

  • Plumbing or septic tank backups (often a black liquid with a disagreeable odor).
  • Slow draining fixtures.
  • Gurgling sounds in the plumbing system.
  • If you have a well and tests show the presence of coliform (bacteria) or nitrates, your drainfield may be failing.
  • Standing liquid over the drainfield, even during dry weather. This may indicate an excessive amount of effluent is moving up through the soil, instead of downward.
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Inspecting Your Septic Tank

June 14th, 2009

 

Inspecting your Septic Tank

The Stick Test

Septic tanks are mainly settling chambers. They allow time for solids and scum to separate out from wastewater, so clear liquid can safely go to the drainfield. Over time, the scum and sludge layers get thicker, leaving less space and time for the wastewater to settle before passing to the drainfield.

For every gallon entering the tank, one gallon is pushed out into the drainfield. So it is important to keep the level of scum and sludge from building up and nearing the inlet or outlet baffles, where the scum or sludge could plug them up or be carried out to the drainfield.

Septic tanks should be checked for buildup every 1 to 3 years until you can get on a predictable pumping schedule. Most septic tanks need pumping every 3 to 5 years. How often depends on the size of the tank, the number of people in the household, and the amount and type of solids entering the tank.

You can hire a professional or inspect your septic tank yourself. The “stick test” procedure will guide you through the steps of measuring the amount of scum and sludge in the tank, discovering the working capacity of the tank, and determining whether the tank needs pumping. A more complete inspection includes inspecting the condition of the baffles and the pipe seals into and out of the tank.

What You Need to Do the Stick Test

  • two 10-foot PVC pipes*
  • four end caps*
  • one 90° elbow*
  • PVC cement (blue cement used in rain and wet)
  • two adapters, SxMPT, threaded*
  • one coupler, threaded*
  • two feet of white rag or old towel or old gym sock
  • string or duct tape
  • pencil or waterproof marker
  • rubber gloves
  • disinfecting solution made of 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water in a bucket
  • plastic bag for disposal of towel, rag/sock, gloves

    *all PVC materials are 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC plastic

The scum stick at right is 6 feet long with a 6-inch leg. The sludge stick is two 5-foot sections screwed together. (NOTE: Scum and sludge sticks can be any length up to 10 feet.)

 

Step 1 — Uncover the Tank

First uncover and remove the first manhole cover. Some systems have “risers” that make this job easier by bringing the tank lids up to the ground surface. (We encourage you to have risers installed so you won’t need to dig down each time you inspect.)

The diagram at left shows the top of the two most common septic tank configurations. The upper figure is found on newer tanks and the bottom one is usually found on older septic tanks. In most cases, the hole to the left is the first compartment, the hole to the right is the second compartment, and the rectangular cover is to the crossover baffle. (Some tanks, 25 years or older, may have only one compartment that is round, oval, or square.)

Step 2 — Measure the Scum Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the scum level (SC).

  1. To make the scum stick — Cut one of the 10-foot PVC pipes to 6 feet. Glue a 90° elbow to one end. Cut a 6-inch piece of PVC pipe and glue to elbow. Place end caps on open ends.
  2. Lay a board or stick across the top of the hole, manhole, or riser.
  3. Place the scum stick down the manhole of the first compartment of the tank until it rests on top of the scum layer  and mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
  4. Work the stick through the scum layer, leading with the elbow end. Push straight through the scum layer, turn the stick 90°, pull up on the stick until you feel the bottom of the scum layer.
  5. Mark the scum stick where it crosses the reference point .
  6. Remove the scum stick and measure the distance between the two marks. This is the thickness of the scum layer (SC).

Step 3 — Measure the Sludge Level

This procedure determines the thickness of the sludge level (SL).

  1. To make the sludge stick — cut the other 10-foot PVC pipe into two 5-foot sections. Glue an adapter to each stick. Screw the coupler into one of the adapters. Connect the two sections to make a 10-foot stick.
  2. Tightly wrap two feet of a white rag or old towel around the bottom of the stick. Fasten it with tape or string.
  3. Make hole in scum — do not stain the sludge stick with scum.
  4. Carefully lower stick through the hole in scum in first compartment until it rests on top of the liquid layer. Mark the stick where it crosses the opening of the manhole or riser
  5. Lower the stick to the bottom of the tank. Hold the stick in the tank for at least five minutes to allow sludge particles to adhere to the towel.
  6. Mark the sludge stick where it crosses the board .  The distance between the two marks  is the working depth of the tank (WD).
  7. Carefully remove the stick. There should be a distinct dark stain on the rag. Measure the height of the stain. This is the depth of the sludge layer (SL).
 
WHEN TO PUMP
Pump the tank when the sludge depth, plus the scum depth, is greater than one-third of the
working depth of the tank:

(a) SC _____ inches + SL _____ inches = _____
(b) WD _____ divided by 3 = _____

If (a) is greater than (b), the tank needs pumping.

For example, if SC = 10, SL = 8, and WD is 48″:
10 + 8 = 18 inches and 48/3 = 16 inches…
18 is greater than 16, so the tank needs pumping.
  

Step 4 — Inspecting the Baffles

Remove the covers over the inlet, outlet, and crossover baffles. Inspect the baffles to ensure they are present and not severely corroded. If the baffles are concrete and molded into the rest of the tank, venting holes should be present and unobstructed.

  • The inlet baffle should be unobstructed and the pipe sealed to the tank.
  • The outlet baffle should be unobstructed and the liquid level should be at the bottom of the pipe, not below the pipe or above the bottom of the pipe. The pipe must be well sealed to the tank.

Cleanup and Disinfection

  • Wear rubber gloves.
  • Discard soiled gloves and sludge toweling in a plastic bag.
  • Rinse sticks with bleach water to disinfect before storing
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Posted in Septic System Inspection, Septic System Maintenance, Septic Tank Pumpimg, Uncategorized, When to Pump a Septic Tank | No Comments »

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